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London influences, Delhi markets, Equal Design Direction


Dashing into London-town while traveling to Delhi last week, presented the opportunity of soaking up some British style influences while enroute to designing Spring 2008.

Spring to spring—season to same season—is a convenient way to look at things. It is much easier than imagining Christmas in the blaze of summer, or the freshness of spring when your whole earth is turning russet. It is hard to get that essential intuitive design hypersensitivity going when the seasons are so misaligned. Designing out of season and far into the future has long been the challenge of design.

It is interesting to note that while some businesses extend their design commitments ever farther and farther ahead [with companies working as much as two years ahead on fabric and design developments], in the fashion industry, the trend is to design closer and closer to the time when customers actually purchase. In-season designing is now a reality in many apparel chains—it helps keep product closer to the customer's wants and also helps manage budgets and inventory levels—you can always hold back on styles that are not yet ordered, if business tells you to.

So, with that little meander, I can tell you about my meanders on Kings Road in London.

I was really expecting to see color directions, trends, and styles—which I did—there were bright greens of all hues, corals, blues, grays of every tone, fresh yellows, naturals mixed with crushed art silks, styling feminine and smock-like. Leggings and blouses and drapey tops signaled a return to comfort, and probably the upcoming baby boom.

But the single most exciting half-hour for me was the Kings Road Farmers Market. In the middle of the busy high street, Saturday vendors showed their beautiful wares.

Imagine: Chelsea buns—I always wanted to try a Chelsea bun—made with currants, you know. It was like eating a little chapter of an English book. I had read about them so often.

Leaf wrapped Banon cheeses—these were so beautiful—like little organic packages—I had to pick one up for my travels.

Giant cheddar rounds in muslin. I loved the warm ivory color of the muslin, the open weave of the cloth—the golden warmth of the cheddar all wrapped up.

Truffles lashed in brie [so good—to die for!]. Think of this as the upper end of the gift market—the Tiffany's of a Farmer's Market. And the creamy color with brown truffles fills a beautiful natural color palette.

There was a whole world of olives—and there is a lot to say about color in the world of olives: blue, black, red, brown, army green—and of course olive! The colors—I would call them rich neutral—good foundation colors.

Cupcakes looking like pretty houses—with thick icing—I imagined a British tea party and all of the elements involved—a tea set, silver, a researched tea, a white lace runner, a glass vase with violets and green shoots.

Miniature wedding cakes—the Kensington crowd must have a use for these—groom's cakes perhaps? Imagine the pre-wedding party, the young men in dark suits, the women in flowered dresses, pretty glasses of champagne. Family to family toasts.

Weddings—that is a big market.

Apple Cake—a German influence here—not the deep dish pie of a Vermont Farmer's Market—but carefully sliced apples layered precisely together. I see the cutting board, the steel knife, and the stove with temperature setting—an apron, and hand soap for cleaning up—does she use lemon scented? China plates in stacks of four and a sliver of cheese. What design of plates—fruit perhaps—or a little scene?

Polish sausage—pungent—earthy in smell—ah, to be a part of the European community and have fresh market produce from Poland and Germany and France, in center city London. Eastern Europe—show me your wares.

And every shop with samples to try—to taste and seduce the shoppers into buying. I love the customer service implicit in that. It was just so super finding a Farmer's Market—with fresh and lively traders—in the middle of a fashion street. It added to the influences of another culture, double-decker buses, London cabs, a little rain, spring flowers, English designers: Paul Smith, Whistles, Monsoon, Tricia Guild, Peter Jones, Terrence Conran—and the yummy food, made the 8-hour transit time in London more than memorable.

The next day saw me Sunday marketing in New Delhi—in intense heat, buying tomatoes and paneer, pulses and yoghurt, mangoes and bananas under the yellow blaze of a laburnum tree.

I did notice that yellow seemed to be making a comeback in London shops now. Everywhere I look—it's yellow, yellow, yellow—including the falling petals of the flowering trees. And then, of course, there is the green green of the leaves. And pretty orange of a mango or the red coral of a very ripe papaya fruit.

Design—just go to the market—all of the ideas are there.

New Delhi,
April

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